- Not a substitute for professional veterinary help.
Have you ever wondered why some people pair their dog’s verbal cues with a hand signal? The answer might surprise you!
“Hand signals are incredibly useful because dogs are naturally visual learners who read body language much faster than verbal commands,” explains Aubrey M. Weber, B.Ed., DBC, CPDT, CCFC, PNCC and trainer on Rover.
“They are essential in noisy environments like busy parks, or when you need to communicate silently, like during a work call,” she adds. “Visual cues also provide a vital line of communication as a dog ages and begins to lose their hearing.”
In this article, we’ll cover how to teach your dog hand signals, plus what each looks like and when to use them.
Tips for Training with Hand Signals
Your approach to teaching dog hand signals will depend on whether your dog already knows a corresponding verbal cue for the behavior you want to teach.
If your dog already knows the verbal cue, you’ll add a hand gesture. If your dog doesn’t know the cue, you’ll start teaching both together.
“Always give the visual cue first, pause for a second, and then say the verbal word so the dog learns the movement predicts the command,” recommends Weber.
In both cases, when your dog responds correctly to the hand signal, mark the behavior right away with a clicker or a “yes!” and reward them.
Here’s what else to know about teaching a dog hand signals:
- Start slow and be consistent. Don’t overload your pup too many hand signals at once—focus on training one or two gestures at a time.
- “Keep your signals distinct and clear,” says Weber, “using completely different hand shapes for a sit versus a down to avoid confusing the dog.”
- If your dog is deaf, be sure they’re looking at you when you use hand gestures. If you need their attention, try using a form of vibration, like tapping on the floor.
- Shake it up. “Practice from different positions so they respond to the hand shape regardless of how you stand,” Weber explains.
- Facial expressions also play a role. Dogs are keen observers and often look at faces for cues about emotions and intentions. A consistent facial expression can reinforce the cue or offer additional context.
- Find what works for you. While there are common hand gestures associated with cues, you can always use your own special cue that works best for you and your pup. The most important thing is patience and consistency.
Sit
- What the hand signal looks like: Put your hand, with palm facing up, at your dog’s nose, then slowly move it upwards.
- Goal: Your dog stops what they’re doing and sits, with their attention directed at you.
- How to teach “sit”: Face your dog with a treat in your hand and hold it just above their nose. Slowly move your hand back toward their tail, luring them into a sit. The moment their bottom hits the ground, reward them with the treat.
- Uses: This fundamental cue can help with all manner of things. For example, you can use it if your dog is jumping on you, before mealtime, or even before crossing a street.
All Done/Free
- What the hand signal looks like: While facing your dog, raise both hands with palms open at about shoulder height, then shake them back and forth a few times.
- Goal: This cue lets a dog know an event, like a training or play session, is over.
- How to teach it: Practicing this cue can be as simple as using it after your dog comes in from outside. Have them sit, reward them with a treat, and then use the hand gesture and verbal cue “all done” or “free.”
- Uses: At the end of a training session or after a game of fetch.
kali9 via iStock
Down
- What the hand signal looks like: Put your palm to your shoulder, then move your hand slowly towards the ground.
- Goal: This cues your dog to lay flat on their stomach on the ground.
- How to teach down: Hold a high-value treat in your hand, then slowly lower it to the floor between your dog’s paws. Let them sniff the treat, then inch it forward slightly to encourage them to stretch their legs and ease into a lying-down position. The moment they get there, reward them right away. With time and practice, add the hand signal and verbal cue.
- Uses: Signaling time to relax, encouraging a jumping dog to stay down, calming an excited pup.
Stay
- What the hand signal looks like: Hold your hand up by your waist with your palm toward your dog.
- Goal: Let your dog know to stop what they’re doing and stay where they are.
- How to teach stay: Start from a sit, adding first duration and then distance while pairing with a hand signal and verbal cue. Don’t forget to use your release cue!
- Uses: Before letting your dog outside so they don’t bolt out the door, or to keep them from begging for food at the table.
Come
- What the hand signal looks like: Extend your arm beside you with your palm facing your dog, then bring your hand and arm to your chest.
- Goal: Tell your dog to stop what they’re doing and come to you.
- How to teach come: You’ll want to start with some distance between you and your pup and increase it as they successfully respond to the hand signal. It’s best to start indoors with limited distractions and build up to practicing outdoors or in a public space.
- Uses: The best time to use this cue is for recall, like calling your dog inside after using the potty or getting them to come to you if they’re running around at the dog park.
Look/Watch Me
- What the hand signal looks like: Point one index finger to your eyes.
- Goal: Get your dog’s focus locked on you.
- How to teach it: Using the lure and reward method, while holding a treat in your hand, hover your hand over your dog’s nose and bring it between your eyes. Once your dog looks there, say “yes” and give them a reward.
- Uses: Refocus your dog’s attention during training, or keep your dog’s attention on you while you pass triggers on a walk.
Leave It
- What the hand signal looks like: Make a fist with one hand, palm up.
- Goal: Tell your dog to ignore an object, person, or other animal.
- How to teach leave it: With your dog seated, hold a treat in your closed fist and bring it near their nose. Repeat “leave it” while keeping your hand closed. When they back off and stop nosing for the treat, mark the moment with a “yes” and reward them.
- Uses: This cue comes in handy for everything from having your pup leave an unknown object they find during a walk to preventing them from ingesting food that falls on the floor.
Drop It
- What the hand signal looks like: Point your finger towards the floor.
- Goal: Tells a dog to drop an object they’re holding.
- How to teach drop it: Start out by choosing a low-value toy and handing it to your dog to play with. Then, enclose a high-value treat in your hand and put it in front of their nose. Your pup should drop the toy for the treat. When they do, mark it with a yes, and reward them with the treat.
- Uses: Recover items your dog shouldn’t have, or ask your dog to return a ball to you during fetch.
Ekaterina Vakhrusheva via iStock
Heel
- What the hand signal looks like: Tap your leg on the side you want your dog to walk on (typically the left) with your palm.
- Goal: Instruct your dog to walk right next to you.
- How to teach heel: Start with a lure at your side, adding distance and duration as your dog progresses. Stop if your dog looks away or breaks position, resuming only when they are in position again.
- Uses: Keep your dog close to you in crowded areas and narrow trails, or while you’re passing a trigger.
Quiet
- What the hand signal looks like: Place your index finger to your mouth, as in a “shh” signal.
- Goal: Tell your dog to stop barking.
- How to teach quiet: Have someone knock at your door. Once your dog starts to bark, say “quiet” paired with the hand gesture, and repeat until dog stops. Reward them with a treat or praise.
- Uses: If your dog tends to be a barker (especially when someone knocks on the door), practice this cue while having someone knock on the door.
How a Trainer Can Help
Incorporating hand signals in your training can be a game changer—but it takes some practice. If you’re getting stuck, consider calling in a professional trainer, who can help you refine your process.
“The biggest mistake is moving your hand and speaking at the exact same time, which causes the dog to ignore the gesture. People also tend to make movements too big and dramatic, which just confuses or startles the dog. A trainer fixes this by fixing your timing and helping you design distinct, clear hand shapes,” Weber explains.
Ready to get started? Reach out to a trainer on Rover and come up with a training plan that works for you and your pup.
