Fleas live everywhere in the world except the Arctic—so it’s no surprise we have to do battle with them no matter where we live. And for many, it’s now a year-round concern. Summer is typically thought of as peak “flea season,” but milder winters, along with central heat and carpeting, have led to more fleas, more often. Pet parents and pet sitters alike are understandably frustrated. Do we have super-fleas on our hands?
Is the flea evolving?
You’ve tried all the usual suspects, from Frontline to Advantage, and the fleas keep coming back. Are fleas resistant to standard flea treatments? Mutant fleas??
Well, probably not. Or at least, not yet! What’s more likely happening is that the fleas are sticking around in the environment, and that even if they die off on your dog, the root problem hasn’t been addressed.
Only 5 percent of the total flea population actually live on our dogs—the rest just set up camp in our pet’s bedding and huddle under the furniture. They hang out in the moist and shady spots outside and just lie in wait. And occasionally, they jump 10-12 inches high and grab on for dear life.
All fleas can be super
In short, “super fleas,” are really just well-nourished, everyday fleas. Given the right conditions, ALL fleas have the potential to be super fleas. They’re stubborn, and they’ll stick around!
What’s a pet parent to do? Stay on top of flea treatments, year-round, and be vigilant. Fortunately, there are more options for treatment than there used to be. We’ve detailed some below, and you can find more here.
Oral options for treatment
Capstar for dogs and cats: around $30 for 6 doses
Pros
- Kills adult fleas quickly
- Side effects are rare
- No mess
- No prescription required
Cons
- Doesn’t kill flea eggs or larvae
- Pets may not take pill willingly
Comfortis for dogs and cats: around $95 for 6 doses
Pros
- Kills adult fleas quickly
- Long-lasting effects
- No mess
Cons
- May cause vomiting
- Serious reactions are rare, but possible
- Requires a prescription
Many vets advise that these oral medications are more effective than the standard topical treatments, but you should consult your vet to decide what’s right for your dog. Natural remedies are also available. You can get a full list of flea treatment options here.
Whichever flea treatment you choose, remember to follow the directions. Pay attention to the weight determined dosage and keep track of your treatment dates. All treatments must be applied on time and correctly to be effective.
But what about our house? It’s like a flea bag hotel.
First, evict the super flea tenants from your poor, powerless dog. Then take the battle to the house.
The flea is predictable and lazy. It’s snoozing in your pet’s bed. It hates the sun and prefers the dark, dingy corners.
So, wash your pet’s bedding regularly. Toss away old stuffed toys. Vacuum carpeting daily, especially under the furniture and in the corners. Toss the pillows and cushions in the wash if you can. If you have done all of this and your ankles are still itching, you may want to hire a professional bounty-hunter like Orkin to pay the Super Flea one last visit.
Hero image: Flickr / Matt Brown
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The information provided in this article is not a substitute for professional veterinary help.
I have had large dogs my entire life. One dog while I lived with my folks, two dogs thereafter to keep each other company. In the early years, the dogs always had fleas and while sprays, powders and eventually the flea collars kept the flea population down, the dogs and the house still had fleas. In the late 70’s I moved to a small town in Oregon and the locals recommended an old country vet who had been there seemingly forever. One day when I brought the dogs in for their annual exam, I was complaining to the vet about how it was such a bad year for fleas and I was thinking of resorting to malathion. Here’s what the vet told me: Pick a place, preferably a bedding place, where your dogs spend a lot of their time. My dogs have a large fenced yard to run in but since this is Oregon and it rains a lot, the dogs spend a lot of their time in their big dog house. I bring them in when I get home and they sleep at the foot of my bed. Place about 4″ of cedar shavings on the floor for bedding – makes them smell nice – then sprinkle borax or diatomaceous earth on the shavings. In a couple of weeks the fleas will be gone. I have not had a flea in the house or on the dogs in almost 40 years. If you look at borax or diatomaceous earth under a microscope, you’ll see that the individual particles have hundreds of razor sharp edges which puncture the fleas hard shell, killing them. Because my dogs spend a lot of their time in the doghouse, I don’t do anything inside the house. If you have small, inside dogs, buy or build a bedding container with sides high enough to contain the cedar shavings if you want your pet(s) to smell good. If not, a piece of thick carpet, like shag, will do nicely. The doghouse my dogs use has a 4′ x 8′ floor. I sprinkle three handfuls of borax over this area each time I change the cedar bedding – about every three months. It doesn’t take much borax to do the job. Then you can forget about fleas.
One way to avoid “bombing” your house for fleas if the infestation isn’t terrible is to buy a clamp light or lamp kit from your local hardware store. Screw in a light bulb, plug in the fixture and place the bare bulb end into a wide-mouthed jar (one that will easily hold the entire bulb). Then place that jar into a pie pan or similar pan of water with dish detergent added. Fleas will jump toward the warm light and land in the slippery dishwater and drown. I’ve successfully controlled flea outbreaks at my elderly mother’s house this way for several years, and you will be amazed at the number of fleas that dive in for a “swim!”
This article is only partially true and the link to the “full list” of treatments is trash. I worked as a veterinary technician for the past 3 years in CA, and am now in veterinary school. I don’t know if you would call them “super” fleas, but there are some fleas that are more resistant to the flea products that have been around for awhile like: Frontline and Advantage (the basic ones). This is a known fact that has been discussed at veterinary conferences. If you have fleas that are more resistant you have to apply Frontline/Advantage more frequently contrary to the 30 days of effectiveness it states on the box. Advantage Multi does still work on cats. Frontline tritak may be more effective, but most offices I worked for stopped carrying it and we stopped recommending it. Most over the counter flea products are not very effective, if at all. I would not recommend buying any flea powders, sprays, or shampoos over the counter because they do not work/or they don’t work for more than a couple days. There are more orals than the ones listed. Capstar is great!! But only as a temporary fix, it is only effective for about 24hrs and you can only give 1 capstar every 48hrs. Sentinel is only flea birth control, it does not kill adult fleas. Comfort is works great, however it is a little chalky tasting and there are other oral products for a little more money (or the same price) that do more. Nexgard, Bravecto, and Trifexis, (not triflexis) are orals that do more band for your buck. Nexgard (lasts 30 days) and Bravecto (lasts 90 days) prevent all cycles of fleas and ticks. Trifexis (monthly) takes it a step further and prevents fleas, heartworm, hookworm, whipworm, and roundworm (does not prevent ticks); it can be a little harsh on the stomach. So if you have a dog with a sensitive stomach there is the topical Revolution (monthly for cats and dogs) that prevents fleas, heartworm, hookworm, whipworm, roundworm, and one type of tick. The Seresto collar also seems to be effective (at least for cats not sure about dogs) and last for 8 months. Other collars are not as effective (if at all) and can cause skin irritation. The cedar shavings and diatomaceous earth can be somewhat effective if you really don’t want to use and prescription preventatives, but you also run the risk of the dust getting into their respiratory tract which can be problematic. Some essential oils can be effective for flea prevention as well, but again be very careful of the amount you use and what type as certain oils are toxic to domestic cats. Never use undiluted essential oil and research them before you think about putting them anywhere near your pet. And as the article stated ensure you are cleaning the environment daily with a vacuum and washing all things that can be washed warm/hot soapy water if you have a flea problem. I would still recommend the brands I listed over the natural remedies, but do what works for your pets and your preference. Sorry, I know that was a little long, but there are so many fleas in CA and a lot of misinformation out there.