in my experience, none of the no-pull solutions work for constant pullers without significant training. prong collars work as short term solutions for non-nervous dogs. Isnt that just a slip lead? do you only walk one client's dog(s) at a time? any considerations for behavioral issues?

My standard rate is $15 and puppy rate is $20 for 30min walks. I've been walking an 11-month old dog, who recently turned a year old and therefore not automatically categorized as a puppy. However, this dog pulls really hard, has no impulse control and lunges at people. I therefore think that I should charge a higher rate. Does anyone do this? How do you approach this price with the client? I've offered to work more with her on leash walking, so the owner is very aware of the issue. Should I just state the extra fee on my profile? And I do mean that this would be for dogs who pull non-stop, not for the occasional pullers.

I also do a base rate and discounted rate for additional dog. If either the owner or sitter expected multiple dogs to be looked after for the price of 1, chances are, they don't take great care or put a lot of thought into the needs of each dog.

For people, who planned to drop-off early on Day 1 and late on Day2, I'd charge a half-day at least. Otherwise, people would try to take advantage.

Theres an excellent free webinar series from the ASPCA which includes dog body language and play. Highly recommend it to anyone who interacts with dogs!

http://aspcapro.org/canine-communication-webinar-series (http://aspcapro.org/canine-communicat...)

Basically, even if play is going "well" you should have frequent breaks. See if one dog will return to the other or avoid. Make sure they both get plenty of exercise before playing so they have more impulse control. Dont think that play should substitute long walks for tiring them out. Work on impulse control exercises. Make sure they each have their own spaces (crates) and that you give them each individual attention.

You need a management routine as if this dog were a puppy. She should be crated or on a leash attached to you while you're in the house. You should take her outside every hour or as often as possible and praise/reward her for eliminating. You can add a cue like "go potty" every time you see her starting to eliminate. Since, it sounds like she lived ina kennel, make sure she has a comfy crate, which is her own space. Give her meals and treats in the crate. Make sure she is getting lots of walks/exercise. Anxiety is inversely proportional to exercise. If you're consistent, it'll take a few weeks to potty train. Make sure you dont react to her going indoors-dont punish. If you feel like you're likely to react, get doggy diapers. Female doggy diapers stay in place really well if you make an attachment to the collar. Also, make sure to clean up using an enzymatic cleaner, so there isnt any residue.

What is your dog's body language? Is he stiff with his tail straight up? I'd highly recommend watching some videos on dog body language. If you see that either your dog or an approaching dog is tense, don't let them meet. Call your dog over to you, have him on leash. Have treats with you to throw on the ground and stop approaching dogs. If your neighbor refuses to keep her dogs on leash, tell her you will call the authorities. Carry citronella spray (sold for this purpose). Letting other dogs attack yours is incredibly traumatic for him, and will make his future interactions with other dogs stressful. It will also ruin his trust in you, since he looks (should look) to you to protect him. You yelling, is likely only adding stress to the situation. If he is not neutered and the other dogs are neutered, that could also be why they are reacting to him.