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How to handle meet and greets with a potentially aggressive dog?

We recently had a meet and greet with a dog that the owner described as somewhat shy and nervous but great with most dogs. She said she tends to run away from dogs and doesn't snap. We brought the dog over for a meet and greet, the dogs were fine on leash, so we let them in the yard and our dog got bit by the other dog. Our dog is very submissive but very playful so as soon as she went to play with the other dog, that is when the other dog got nervous and bit our dog to a point our dog squealed louder than we've ever heard and cowered away from us. The other dog was a sweetheart otherwise. However, we are now concerned about any dogs coming for a meet and greet that are described as shy and nervous because we obviously don't want our dog being bit again. Are there questions I can ask before the meet and greet to get the owner to admit to this type of behavior before the meet and greet? Is there a better way to have them meet that doesn't put my dog at risk? What would you recommend?

UPDATE: Thank you all so much for your thoughtful responses. The guest dog was wagging and seemed ok at first. When we let them off leash after the initial introductions, as soon as my dog went to walk by her, she went after her. My dog does have a big scrape on her side so it wasnt a full bite but she did get her. We are doing a hefty meet and greet screening going forward as we've found a lot of owners aren't forthcoming with how dog socialized their dog actual is. Lots and lots of questions about how much experience guest dog has with other dogs now and pre-warning that our dog is hyper and excitable. We are also going to keep the dogs on the leash exclusively so we don't risk our dog getting bit again.

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Sounds like a good plan. If neither dog is food reactive, it might be a good idea to give your guest treats when your dog is near her so she makes positive associations with her presence. It might not help that much in the time you have with her, but it certainly won't hurt.

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I can only share what's worked for me. If you discover that you or your dog tends to have preferences towards some dogs being /not being well matched, consider that before agreeing to meet &greets. You may find it's in everyone's best interests to politely decline some M&Gs. All meet & greets are basically the same: When the guest dog arrives, both dogs meet outside on leashes, while each owner handles their dogs, on a mostly parallel short walk along a landscaped path, where they can mark, take care of business, and briefly sniff a little, reinforced with praise for being good. I've found that a 15 minute walk gives me a much clearer idea if it's a good match than just 5 minutes. Once back home, the dogs can interact unleashed in the main open room, where we can observe their every move. My attention is more focused on the dogs than any discussion I'm having with another human. Nobody has ever been had a problem with that (even if we end up repeating something) because I'm watching out for the best interests of all dogs.

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That is definitely a tough situation to be in, and I'm glad you're not giving up on taking care of dogs. It is extremely difficult to assess ahead of time whether a dog will negatively interact with our dogs at meet and greets, and there is always some risk that will happen, even with otherwise well-behaved dogs. Also keep in mind that most (if not all) dogs have a situation under which they feel obligated to defend themselves. Some dogs have more situations (ones that trigger self-defense) than others, and this is also related to training, though certainly not exclusively.

In terms of questions you can ask, the only thing is asking more specifically if a potential guest dog has had any negative interactions or problems with other dogs in the past, what the situation was and why the owner thinks that happened, and if they have found anything that's been helpful for introducing their dog to new dogs. Other than that, do your research. I can't stress this enough. Learn about dog behavior and how to interact with different types of dogs with different behaviors (territorial, dominant, overexcited, etc.). Any time a dog owner tells me their dog is shy, that indicated to me that there is a potential for aggression, and I make sure to give that dog PLENTY of space during a meet and greet. I limit eye contact and angle my body away so they are not intimidated by me. I make sure my dogs sniff from a distance and make sure to watch the potential guest carefully to see how they're reacting to my dog. If they are recoiling, becoming tense, or hiding behind their owner, I know to back my dogs off. If they are stretching out their head to sniff or sniffing towards my dog, I know they're coming out of their comfort zone and I should continue what I'm doing. I completely agree with Deb that walking dogs together is extremely helpful and essential for many dogs.

It sounds like you had an excitable dog wanted to meet an anxious dog, which is a recipe for disaster if not closely monitored. This reminds me of our puppy, who is now about a year old (okay less of a puppy now). We have had many adult dogs who didn't want anything to do with her, but she would continue trying to play with them. Most of our guest dogs would either ignore her or react strongly (a few would actually play). I always encourage our guest dogs to be assertive with our puppy once I've seen that their assertiveness is restrained. Dog assertiveness can be scary since they can use their mouths to communicate, and there are a lot of teeth in there! After monitoring all the dogs closely, both on leash outside and inside, I trusted most of these dogs to correct our puppy in a restrained manner, and trusted that our puppy... (more)

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You should never have any dogs meet unless they are balanced an fully trained dogs. Ie. (dog parks)Or this is the issues you get. When introducing dogs you should have full control of what is going on. Balanced trained dogs running around an the new dog on a leash next to you. Fully advocating for the leashed dog. First few sessions muzzle may be needed. Find a balanced dog trainer that you can do balanced dog Socialization with. Dog parks are the worst place in the world to do this. Because you can't correct other people's dogs.

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I agree with Deb's process for M&Gs. I have a dog who tends to be bratty on leash (overexcited by new dogs, frustrated and nervous with greetings) and is getting less tolerant of new dogs as she ages. For her sake, as well as my potential clients', I take introductions slowly. The dogs only get to greet each other when both are relaxed. Their bodies should be loose, not tense. Showing interest in the other dog is fine (I don't mind a little leash pulling or a little whining; I'm not looking for perfection), but intense focus, hard stares, excessive whining, over-excitement, nervousness or fear, etc. can lead to an unpredictable situation where one or both dogs might snap or bite.

We take the dogs for a walk together, and only let them approach each other when they are both calm and behaving appropriately. This can take a while, but in my experiences, greetings like this go much more smoothly than greetings with no chance for acclimation first. Usually after 10 minutes or so (sometimes longer with more excitable/fearful dogs, sometimes less with more easy-going dogs) then we can head back home and let the dogs interact off-leash inside. Like Deb, I'm far more focused on the dogs than I am on the people. If one of them starts to act uncomfortable (either mine showing stress about having another dog in her space or theirs concerned about interest from mine), I'll have my dog take a time-out to give them a chance to relax and try again. What I'm looking for is for all the dogs to be able to relax in each other's presence before the M&G ends. If I feel like my dog is too focused on the activities of the other dog during the M&G and I can't readily redirect her attention to me, it would not be a good match.

You can't control the behavior of the other person's dog, and you can't guarantee that the owners will have control, so you have to be proactive about controlling the environment and your own dog. It sounds like your outgoing, playful dog wasn't reading or responding to the other dog's cues asking for time and space. It doesn't matter how friendly she is being; her approach scared the other dog, who reacted defensively. It sounds like there wasn't a wound, so the other dog was inhibiting their bite (though still potentially biting harder than was necessary to make their point) and giving your dog a warning to change her approach. In the future, if you choose to continue meeting with shy/nervous dogs, I'd recommend keeping your dog on a long lead/tether rather than allowing completely off-leash interactions at first. That way if your dog isn't responding to cues from the other dog, you can easily redirect her to prevent another incident (which is good practice for your... (more)

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Ask the Owners about their dogs history before meeting. A caring and responsible Owner will be candid about their dogs history, personality, or incompatibility with other dogs (regardless of if they have any or not) even before scheduling a meet.

However, it's important to keep in mind the safety and security of your own dog before meeting with a dog who've personally never met or evaluated–I say this because meet & greets are not covered by Rover's insurance for either dog.

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I am in a smaller town in Texas. I can say that meeting at a pet store has worked out for my dogs and visiting dogs. The Petco trainer in our area is top notch and I prefer to do my meet and greets there. While I have not experienced every problem in her presence, the initial meet and greet goes better with an experienced trainer present.