The Complete Puppy Socialisation Checklist

• This article has been reviewed by a pet health professional. It is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice.

Socialising your puppy is one of the most important things you can do to set them up for a happy, confident life. Puppies who are socialised early tend to be less fearful and anxious as adults, with a lower chance of developing behavioural concerns.

The challenge is that the socialisation period is short, lasting just the first four months of a dog’s life. And there’s a lot to fit in. You’ll want to meet new people, get used to loud sounds, and walk on different surfaces—and that’s just for starters.

With the help of Kait Hembree, Head of Training at GoodPup, we’ve put together a complete puppy socialisation checklist, plus advice on tailoring the general principles of socialisation to each new situation you tackle.

Body Handling and Grooming

Getting your puppy comfortable with people touching their body is an essential part of socialisation. Your puppy will likely be handled in different ways during vet visits, grooming, and everyday care, like petting, brushing, and nail trims. So the more comfortable they are with human touch, the better.

How to do it

You can start practising handling your puppy as soon as you bring them home, usually around eight weeks old. Hembree suggests pairing gentle handling with treats.

“Always start the treats just before you begin handling and remove your hands before the treats run out—this way, the touch becomes associated with good things,” she adds. “As they get better, our touching can go more places and have more pressure.” A lick mat can be a handy, long-lasting reward.

What to watch for

If you see the following signs, it’s time to end the handling session:

• Your puppy pulls away, stiffens, or looks uncomfortable
• Your puppy doesn’t want to stay still
• You see signs of overstimulation, like excessive licking or mouthiness towards the hands

Handling socialisation checklist

• Touching ears
• Lifting ears to check inside
• Running hands down legs
• Touching and gently squeezing paws
• Handling nails
• Holding a paw for a few seconds
• Pressing on nails as if preparing for a trim
• Touching between the toes
• Lifting lips to check teeth
• Opening their mouth
• Rubbing fingers along their gums
• Holding their muzzle gently
• Brushing their coat
• Touching their tail
• Lifting their tail
• Gently restraining with an arm around their body
• Lightly holding their collar
• Using a towel to wipe their paws or body
• Holding them in a standing position
• Lifting them onto a grooming surface
• Using a soft brush or grooming tool
• Running hands along their belly and chest
• Mimicking a vet exam (gently pressing on their abdomen, checking joints, etc.)

Sound Socialisation

Loud, strange, and unexpected noises can be scary for puppies, but proper socialisation helps them learn that sounds are just a normal part of life. Try to introduce noises gradually and pair them with positive experiences. That way, your dog is less likely to become stressed about the blender or be scared of fireworks in later life.

How to do it

You can start socialisation as soon as you bring your puppy home. If your puppy isn’t fully vaccinated yet, the Blue Cross recommends taking precautions and only socialising your puppy in areas that are sanitary and low-risk.

• Start with low-volume versions of sounds and gradually increase over time.
• Use a sound socialisation app or YouTube playlist with noises like sirens, fireworks, and traffic.
• Pair new sounds with treats, playtime, or praise to create a positive association.
• Expose your puppy to real-life sounds, like running a blender while they enjoy a chew toy.
• If they seem nervous, lower the volume, increase the distance from the noise so it’s less intense, and go slower. Begin with just a few seconds versus a few minutes.

What to watch for

• If your puppy startles, see if they recover quickly. A little surprise is okay, but lingering concern means you should slow down or stop.
• Even if your puppy barks or reacts strongly, stay calm. As long as they recover quickly, you can begin rewarding calm, quiet behaviour instead.
• Avoid forcing them to “face their fears.” Hembree recommends letting them do what they need to do to feel safe, which could mean leaving a situation.

Sound socialisation checklist

Household sounds

• Hoover
• Hairdryer
• Blender
• Doorbell
• Phone ringing
• TV and radio
• Alarm clock
• Washing machine/dryer
• Dishwasher
• Microwave beeping

Outdoor and environmental sounds

• Thunderstorms
• Fireworks
• Wind and heavy rain
• Cars and motorcycles
• Honking horns
• Sirens (ambulance, fire truck, police)
• Construction noises (jackhammers, drills, etc.)
• Trains and aeroplanes
• Dogs barking in the distance
• People clapping or cheering

Public space and social sounds

• Babies crying
• Children playing
• Applause and cheering
• Shopping carts
• Restaurant or café noise
• Echoes in large spaces
• Crowd chatter
• Loudspeakers (announcements at shops, airports, etc.)
• Musical instruments
• Gunshots
• Airport, planes
• Elevator noises

Places, Environments, and Textures

The world is full of different surfaces and sensations, and sometimes we forget how unfamiliar that might feel to a young puppy. Helping your puppy navigate busy spaces and walk on different types of floors will show them that new places aren’t so scary.

How to do it

You can begin socialising your puppy to different indoor surfaces and rooms as soon as you bring them home. For outdoor areas, especially higher-traffic places like parks or pet shops, it’s generally recommended that puppies have received at least one vaccine and deworming treatment and be at least seven days post-vaccination before visiting a public setting.

If your puppy hasn’t had all their vaccines, it’s always a good idea to consult with your puppy’s veterinarian about the risk of exposure in outside areas. Once you deem it appropriate and safe for your pup, you can:

• Start with public spaces that offer nonporous surfaces, like linoleum and sealed cement
• Select environments that are low in dog traffic
• Take further precautions by carrying your pup in a backpack, wagon, or even a grocery cart during outside environmental socialisation

What to watch for

• Hesitation is okay, but if your pup shows signs of extreme fear, like a refusal to move, you should slow down or let your puppy opt out.
• Pay attention to body language. Tail tucking, backing away, freezing, and not taking treats are signs your puppy might need more time.
• Avoid overwhelming your puppy. Stick to quiet, controlled environments before tackling busier areas.

Environment socialisation checklist

Indoor and outdoor spaces

• The car (both parked and moving)
• Vet clinic (for happy, non-appointment visits!)
• Grooming salon
• Pet-friendly shops
• Pavements, alleyways, and lobbies
• Parks and playgrounds
• Dog-friendly cafés and outdoor restaurants
• Public transportation (buses, trains, and lifts)
• Construction sites (from a safe distance)
• Car parks

Surfaces and textures

• Grass
• Sand
• Gravel
• Concrete
• Wooden floors
• Carpet
• Metal grates or storm drains
• Tile and lino
• Rubber mats
• Puddles and wet surfaces
• Snow and ice
• Mud

People

Socialising your puppy to people isn’t just about letting strangers pet them. A dog doesn’t need to greet or love everyone they see—they just need calm, positive experiences around different types of people.

Your goal will be to expose your puppy to people with different voices, clothing, and accessories, as well as friendly visitors at home. The more variety they experience early on, the more likely they are to see new people as just another part of everyday life.

How to do it

The Blue Cross recommends socialising your puppy with trusted friends, family, and even strangers soon after you bring them home.

• Start with trusted friends and family who will respect your puppy’s comfort level and follow your guidance.
• Have visitors ignore your puppy at first to give them space to approach when ready.
• When you start venturing outside, always let your puppy choose to approach new people rather than forcing an interaction.
• Encourage quiet, calm greetings instead of letting people rush up and overwhelm them.
• Pair new people with treats and praise to build positive associations.
• Expose your puppy to different appearances (hats, sunglasses, long coats, beards, etc.).

What to watch for

• If your puppy backs away, hides, growls at a person, or isn’t interested in treats, create distance between them or remove them from the situation.
• Avoid overwhelming experiences.
• Look for soft, loose body language and open mouths with tongues exposed—a relaxed tail wag is a good sign!

People socialisation checklist

Ages

• Babies (with careful supervision)
• Toddlers
• Young children
• Teenagers
• Adults
• Elderly people

Appearances and clothing

• People with glasses
• People with beards
• People wearing hats
• People with umbrellas
• People wearing hoods or scarves
• People with backpacks or rolling suitcases
• People in uniforms (delivery drivers, police officers, etc.)
• People wearing perfume or strong scents

Behaviours and movements

• People who walk with canes or crutches
• People using wheelchairs or prams
• People running or jogging
• People riding bikes or skateboards
• People clapping or cheering
• People carrying bags or large objects
• People speaking loudly or laughing

Other Dogs

Dogs speak a language all their own, and the best way for your puppy to learn it is through positive, well-managed interactions with other dogs. Socialising with other dogs teaches your puppy how to play, communicate, and read signals.

It’s important to note that not all dogs are instant best friends, and that’s okay! Studies show that it is still helpful for your puppy to have positive experiences with a variety of dogs.

How to do it

You can start socialising your puppy with fully vaccinated, friendly dogs as early as eight weeks. With other dogs, like other puppies at a puppy training class, the Blue Cross recommends that puppies avoid dogs of uncertain vaccination status. If you are certain that other puppies are up to date on vaccinations, the risk of letting them interact is lower.

They should be kept up to date on vaccines throughout the class.

• Use a lead at first, but keep it fairly loose.
• Supervise introductions and play carefully.
• Look for loose, bouncy movements (good) vs. stiff, intense behaviour (time for a break).

What to watch for

• Overexcitement—puppies can get easily overwhelmed.
• Bullying behaviour—if one dog is being pushy and the other dog is not re-engaging, it’s time to separate them.
• Fearful reactions—if your puppy is hiding, tucking their tail, or yelping, remove them from the situation.

Dog socialisation checklist

Sizes, looks, and energy levels

• Small, medium, and large friendly dogs
• Long-, curly-, and short-haired dogs
• Dogs with long tails, tails held over their back, docked tails
• Brachycephalic or flat-faced breeds (Pugs, Bulldogs)
• Different colour patterns—blue merle, circular colours around eyes, eye colour itself, etc.
• Puppies
• Senior dogs

Personalities

• Shy dogs
• Outgoing, social dogs
• Independent dogs who don’t care to play

Communication Styles

• Dogs that grunt and snort
• Barky or especially vocal dogs

Situations

• Walking past dogs on a lead
• Watching dogs play from a distance
• Meeting one-on-one
• Meeting in a small group
• Encountering dogs behind fences or gates
• Visiting the house of another friendly dog
• Having a friendly dog visit your house
• Sitting calmly near a dog without interacting

Other Animals

Dogs don’t just share their world with humans and other dogs—they’ll also encounter cats, squirrels, birds, rabbits, and maybe even farm animals.

Some breeds (like herding and hunting breeds) naturally have a strong prey drive, meaning they’re more likely to chase fast-moving animals like squirrels or rabbits. They might need extra guidance or exercises to help teach impulse control that can be applied when around other animals. Impulse control exercises include cues like sit and wait, leave it, and drop it, as well as give/take it games.

How to do it

Your puppy can start interacting with other vaccinated animals as early as eight weeks, with careful supervision. The goal is to teach them how to be calm and offer appropriate behaviours when around other animals.

• Start with a barrier (like a baby gate) for other house pets, allowing slow, safe, controlled interactions.
• Reward calm behaviour. Praise and treat your puppy for watching politely or ignoring the other animal.
• Use a lead in outdoor settings to prevent chasing.
• Redirect attention with training cues, treats, or toys if your puppy gets fixated.

What to watch for

• Overexcitement—chasing, barking, or fixating on small animals.
• Fear responses—hiding, whining, or excessive apprehension.
• Rough play—puppies may not understand their own strength with smaller animals.

Animal socialisation checklist

Small pets and domestic animals

• Friendly cats
• Rabbits, guinea pigs, or ferrets in a secure cage
• Birds inside a home (parrots, canaries, etc.)
• Fish tanks and aquariums
• Livestock from a safe distance (cows, horses, goats)

Wildlife and outdoor animals

• Squirrels running or in a tree
• Birds flying or walking on the ground
• Ducks or geese near water
• Rabbits in a yard or park
• Hedgehogs or lizards
• Seeing deer from a distance

The socialisation checklist is long, and it can be hard to fit everything in within your puppy’s socialisation window. For help getting through the list, it can be worth calling in the pros. That might mean a puppy training class, a private trainer, or even a dog walker or sitter who can help you get your puppy out and about. Remember, you and your puppy don’t have to go it alone!