- This article has been reviewed by a pet health professional. It is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice.
Bringing home a puppy is exciting, but there’s one big deadline you don’t want to miss—the puppy socialisation period. This is a short but crucial window, typically from 3 to 12 weeks old, when puppies are most receptive to new experiences. It’s the ideal time to introduce them to new people, places, textures, and sounds.
The tricky part: this phase overlaps with their early vaccine schedule, their first fear period (between 8 and 11 weeks old), and your already busy life. So, how do you safely introduce your pup to new things during the puppy socialisation period without putting their health or comfort at risk? And what if you end up having to socialise your puppy outside the window?
To help us break it all down, we spoke with Kait Hembree, Head of Training at GoodPup, who shares the best ways to set your pup up for success.
The Critical Puppy Socialisation Window
The puppy socialisation period is a crucial phase in a puppy’s development when they’re highly adaptable to new experiences. Most experts believe the window lasts from 3 to 12 weeks old, with some extending it to 14 weeks.
Hembree says that biologically, this window exists because a puppy isn’t yet fully neurologically developed. Since their brains are still developing, puppies are incredibly receptive to learning, highly adaptable to new experiences, and less prone to stress.
Taken together, that means:
- Puppies are less likely to become upset about new experiences while they’re happening, and
- Any negative experiences a puppy does have are less likely to leave a lasting impression.
We’ve broken down the different stages of the puppy socialisation period below.
The primary period (3-7 weeks)
During the primary period of socialisation, puppies begin to become aware of their surroundings, including textures and day-to-day sounds. They learn behavioural patterns and form new connections based on experiences. Positive experiences with humans, other animals, and various environmental exposures set a puppy up to expect good things, not frightening ones.
During the primary period, puppies also learn how dogs interact with each other. That includes communication with other dogs, play, and dog social skills. They start learning bite inhibition through play with their littermates and begin forming early relationships with humans.
The secondary period (7-14 weeks)
In the secondary socialisation stage, Hembree says puppies learn how to communicate in the human environment. They have all their senses, so it’s vital that they are introduced to as many new people, objects, and novel surroundings as possible, including within their new home.
This second period can be a little more challenging than the first, as it typically includes a puppy’s first fear period (anytime from 8 to 11 weeks), during which traumatic events can result in an increased risk of developing behavioural concerns or anxiety later in life.
But gradual, positive exposure to different environments, people, and animals helps solidify social skills and reduces the risk of potential behavioural issues down the road.
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Dona Shiell via iStock
Socialisation at Home
There’s a lot to cover in a puppy’s socialisation checklist, and not much time to do it in. That time can feel even shorter when you’re waiting for your puppy to have enough vaccinations to go outside and meet other dogs. Puppies in areas with low Parvo risk may get the green light from their vet to go out sooner, while dogs in high-risk areas may need to wait until the vaccine series is complete.
The good news is that there’s a lot of socialisation you can do at home. Socialisation isn’t just about meeting other dogs; it’s about helping your puppy experience new things in a safe and positive way.
“I’ve had clients bring the outside in, from grass to sticks to pinecones. They have people go different places and get different smells on them and come over,” adds Hembree. “There are ways to control the risk and still provide outside socialisation opportunities.”
Here are some effective ways to socialise your puppy at home before they’re fully vaccinated.
- Handling exercises. Gently touch your puppy’s paws, ears, and mouth to get them comfortable with vet exams and grooming. Offer lots of treats during the process.
- Household items. Show them brooms, umbrellas, rubbish bags, and other differently shaped household items. Start with no movement and slowly add it.
- Household sounds. Expose them to common household noises, such as the hoover, doorbell, and kitchen appliances, while pairing the sounds with treats. You may need to muffle some sounds initially and then gradually increase the volume.
- Different surfaces. Let your puppy walk on rugs, tile, hardwood, grass, and even wobbly surfaces like a pillow. Encourage them, but never push them if they are uncomfortable.
- Costume play. Wear hats, sunglasses, or bulky jackets to help your puppy get used to different human appearances. Play fun games together during these interactions.
- Car rides. Take your puppy for short car rides to get them used to travelling and let them smell and see different places. You may need to start with the engine off at first.
- Scent and object exposure. Introduce your puppy to new smells like perfumes and air fresheners. Keep to mild smells that aren’t too powerful.
- Garden equipment. Show your puppy garden items like a lawn mower, water hose, or rubbish bins. Start by having them watch you interact with these objects from a distance.
Socialization Outside
Even if your puppy can’t go outside just yet because they’re not vaccinated, there are still plenty of ways to help them experience the outside world. Here are some ways to safely get your puppy out and about during their critical socialisation period.
Backpacks, wagons, and pet strollers
Studies show that dogs living in urban areas are more likely to be fearful of people, so it’s important to start socialising your puppy to different environments early on. If your puppy isn’t quite ready for outdoor adventures, you can still bring them along for the ride. Pet backpacks, wagons, and strollers are a great way to safely transport your puppy while allowing them to observe the world around them.
Car trips
Taking your puppy on car trips is another fun way to expose them to new environments and experiences. Even if you’re just driving to the store, the car ride introduces new sights and sounds that can help with their socialisation.
You can also make pit stops in places like quiet parking lots or calm areas to let them take in the sights. The goal is to help your puppy become accustomed to different experiences without feeling overwhelmed. Giving them an opportunity to just watch the world is a terrific way to help them acclimate.
Costume party fun
Another idea is to throw a costume party where your friends dress up in fun outfits. This is a great way to get your puppy accustomed to people’s diverse appearances and movements, helping them build confidence around unfamiliar individuals and situations.
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SolStock via iStock
Socialisation with Other Dogs
Socialising with other dogs is an important part of your puppy’s development. If your puppy is unable to meet other dogs yet, there are still ways to help them build those essential social skills. Here’s what you can do.
Schedule playdates with vaccinated, known dogs
Even though your puppy can’t be exposed to random dogs, you can still arrange playdates at home, making sure that any visiting dogs are fully vaccinated. A quick foot wash before they come inside can help minimise the risk of contamination. This can be a fantastic way for your puppy to learn dog social cues and body language.
Exposure to dogs from a distance
Sometimes, simply seeing other dogs from a safe distance can be beneficial. Take your puppy for walks in areas where they can observe dogs on leads or in fenced gardens. This allows them to observe how dogs interact with people, other dogs, and their environment without any direct physical contact.
Over time, your puppy will become more comfortable and confident when they do have the chance to meet dogs face-to-face.
Puppy classes
According to the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB), enrolling your puppy in puppy classes prior to three months of age can be an excellent way to train and socialise them in an environment where the risk of illness can be minimised.
These classes are typically held in a structured and disinfected setting designed to ensure safety, where all puppies have received their first round of vaccines and are well-supervised.
Scent and sound exposure
Dogs learn a lot from smell and sound, so even if your puppy can’t meet other dogs physically, you can expose them to their scent. Allow your puppy to sniff toys or bedding from other dogs, or use a playlist of dog sounds to introduce them to different dog behaviours and noises.
What If Your Puppy’s Socialisation Period Is Already Over?
Though the critical socialisation window is a great opportunity to introduce new things in a low-risk way, there’s still a lot you can do after it ends to help your puppy become a well-adjusted adult dog.
Instead of focusing on traditional socialisation, you’ll transition to “desensitisation” training through gradual exposures.
Hembree explains that while the checklist of experiences remains largely the same, the process becomes slower and more cautious.
Desensitisation with gradual exposures, step by step
- Start with foundation skills. Before diving in, make sure your puppy has a solid grasp of basic skills (sit, stay, come). Practice these in a calm, non-distracting environment to build their confidence.
- Monitor arousal. If your puppy becomes upset or overexcited, it makes it harder for them to learn. Begin exposure in low-stress environments where your dog can remain calm and focused on you. Watch their reactions carefully.
- Make sure exposure is gradual. Once your puppy has mastered the basics, gradually increase the intensity of the exposure. Start small, then slowly work your way up to busier places or situations, and make sure to reward calm behaviour.
- Keep sessions short and end on a positive note. Always have an exit plan in case your puppy becomes overwhelmed. If they can’t focus on you or respond to cues, Hembree recommends allowing them to retreat from the situation to avoid making a negative association.
What not to do
“Often we ask too much, and when we’ve asked too much, we don’t let dogs leave or have time to recover. Unfortunately, that does more damage than good,” says Hembree.
Don’t push your puppy too hard, too fast. If they’re not ready for a busy event, don’t take them there. Exposing dogs to more than what they are ready for can lead to stress and make future training more difficult. And if your puppy is uncomfortable, don’t force them to interact with new people, dogs, or environments. Instead, let them choose to engage.
When To Get Help
If your puppy is so anxious or fearful that it’s hard to train them, consider seeking professional help. A trainer can work with you on a desensitisation plan and on how to use counter-conditioning techniques to help your puppy learn to associate positive experiences with scary things.
Hembree recommends reaching out to a humane, rewards-based trainer. “Having a trainer who can professionally coach you in those situations and tweak or modify things as needed, based on what’s happening, can be really beneficial,” she advises.
She adds encouragement: “Most dogs are our kids these days. We’re going to be spending, ideally, a good chunk of our lives with them. Why wouldn’t we want to get some help so that their life is a quality one? Nobody should feel bad for advocating for their family.”
As with all things in training, patience and consistency are key. With careful planning, you can help your puppy become a confident adult, even if their critical socialisation window has already passed.
