I would ask the client for reimbursement. You can phrase it in terms of destruction to property (assuming you're boarding), and that you're trying to avoid it. Also let the owner know that the dog may have more ailments than she previously knew about. Then she can also keep the wraps for her own home if wanted/needed.

Rover suggests talking with the client first, but above all they will help you if you can't get it from the client. After all, that's what the fees are for right?

What I've done is politely tell the client my rates, then make the adjustment to the price in the booking as such. I did that with a client recently, tried to board with me using the regular dog rate rather than puppy (only a $5 difference).

I have a stay from today June 29th through to July 5th, it's all considered holiday pay through Rover. I normally charge $5+ on top of my regular rate for holidays, however for Thanksgiving and Christmas I'm going to do $10+ due to those holidays being worth more to me in regards of time. :) hope this helps!

She will start to bleed and other dogs, particularly male dogs will be much more interested in her. It would be wise to keep her away from other dogs during this time, as some dogs may become aggressive. There are also diapers for the blood to keep it from getting all over your floor. It will start with a few drops and then boom! You'll know.

Because they love you! :)

I posted this on another question, but it's pertinent for this one too:

Whining in adolescent and adult dogs can be a sign of poor impulse control and way of trying to get your attention or have their way. And the reason why they continue the behavior is because it is being reinforced (they get their way).

I'll give an example: Say you're sitting down watching TV and your dog comes up to you and starts whining out of the blue. What do you do? You give them attention, a treat, play with them, etc. Assuming you want to stop the whining, it has to stop with the reinforcement.

There's an exercise I read in Adolescent Dog Survival Guide by Sarah Whitehead that works tremendously for dog's with impulse issues:

Put your dog on a leash, and sit in a chair.

Place your foot firmly on the leash. Leave enough slack so your dog can sit and stand comfortably but cant jump up or roam much.

Watch TV or read a book, usually you'll be here a while.

Ignore your dog no matter what! Whether they're chewing the leash, barking, whining, getting tangled up, acting like a crazy person. Don't even look at them! That is also a reward for a dog!

Eventually your dog will settle down with a big sigh of resignation. That's when you give praise. Make sure to keep them on the leash for a few more minutes before you let them go.

Continue this exercise each day until your dog settles down immediately when you put them on the leash.

Another piece of advice is to completely ignore the behavior you're trying to change. When your dog whines, turn your back on them, leave the room, don't make eye contact. Ignoring a dog is the biggest form of punishment for a dog. Most dogs will try and grab your attention, walk around to the other side of you, stare at you, or bark. Don't give in; even eye contact is a treat and a form of reinforcement. Once they calm down, give them attention and treat that behavior. Reinforce good behavior rather than the behavior you're trying to eliminate.

Depending on the severity of the behavior, I would ignore from anywhere to 30 seconds-1 minute for something small like getting too close to my plate, to upwards of an hour for something like using teeth too hard during play or something else that will simply not be tolerated. Once again the worst form of punishment is taking away attention or play.

Sorry, mistake

I would suggest using a shampoo designed specifically for dogs. Like with humans, you might have to shop around to find what suits your dog. For instance, does your dog have dry skin, long hair, or a greasy coat? There's a different product for each situation. You should also take frequency into consideration. Does you dog have a knack for running into mud puddles or poison oak bushes? I would suggest something much more gentle if you'll be needing to bathe them on a weekly basis rather than every month or two. There's also conditioners for dogs, and leave in shampoo and conditioner as well a mousse. You can get incredibly fancy if you wanted to.

Also, there's the question of fleas. Are they currently flea free and on preventative medication or are they currently infested? If you're looking to give your dog a flea bath I would suggest something that also kills the eggs and larva in addition to adult fleas. Read the label and instructions thoroughly. If you have any bedding that the dog lays on regularly, give it a wash. Carpets will need to be cleaned as well, there are powders and other methods for that. Otherwise, they will just become re-infested. I understand the flea battle well.

You can also use the blue Dawn dish soap to flea bath your dog. I will let you know that this is not a good idea for dogs with sensitive skin or dry skin. Use this method sparingly! If you don't know how to do it there are many tutorials and guides online. You can probably find a video on YouTube if you're feeling particularly lost.

Sometimes it's a nutrition or enzyme deficiency. But some dogs just like eating poop, rolling in poop, becoming one with the poop. Disgusting, I know.

Some things are just instinctual. Dog lick to show affection, respect, or to help groom you. My dog is always licking my legs after I get out of the shower too, maybe to help groom me? They're silly, but it's all out of love!

Whining in adolescent dogs can be a sign of poor impulse control and way of trying to get your attention or have their way. And the reason why they continue the behavior is because it is being reinforced (they get their way).

I'll give an example: Say you're sitting down watching TV and your dog comes up to you and starts whining out of the blue. What do you do? You give them attention, a treat, play with them, etc. Assuming you want to stop the whining, it has to stop with the reinforcement.

There's an exercise I read in Adolescent Dog Survival Guide by Sarah Whitehead that works tremendously for dog's with impulse issues:

1. Put your dog on a leash, and sit in a chair.

2. Place your foot firmly on the leash. Leave enough slack so your dog can sit and stand comfortably but cant jump up or roam much.

3. Watch TV or read a book, usually you'll be here a while.

4. Ignore your dog no matter what! Whether they're chewing the leash, barking, whining, getting tangled up, acting like a crazy person. Don't even look at them! That is also a reward for a dog!

5. Eventually your dog will settle down with a big sigh of resignation. That's when you give praise. Make sure to keep them on the leash for a few more minutes before you let them go.

6. Continue this exercise each day until your dog settles down immediately when you put them on the leash.

Another piece of advice is to completely ignore the behavior you're trying to change. When your dog whines, turn your back on them, leave the room, don't make eye contact. Ignoring a dog is the biggest form of punishment for a dog. Most dogs will try and grab your attention, walk around to the other side of you, stare at you, or bark. Don't give in; even eye contact is a treat and a form of reinforcement. Once they calm down, give them attention and treat that behavior. Reinforce good behavior rather than the behavior you're trying to eliminate.

Depending on the severity of the behavior, I would ignore from anywhere to 30 seconds-1 minute for something small like getting too close to my plate, to upwards of an hour for something like using teeth too hard during play or something else that will simply not be tolerated. Once again the worst form of punishment is taking away attention or play.

Dogs start humping as they're growing into adolescence. This sometimes it can be an act of dominance, but not always. It usually starts as the natural drive mate begins, but may continue because of remaining in tact or embarrassingly to us, it feels good to them. Neutering may help they're mating drive, but it doesn't always help with the humping drive. This drive also isn't just in male dogs, but can also be present in more dominant females as well.

You can read more here: http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/features/humping-why-do-dogs-do-it#1 (http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/features/h...)

Like humans, there are numerous reasons that cause dogs to vomit. You can look up online to see causes and possibly narrow down the cause yourself, or take your dog to the veterinarian if the frequency increases, or occurs with other symptoms like fever, rashes, hives, etc or has been happening over an extended period of time (three or more days). If you notice any blood in the vomit or in their feces, get help immediately. Most causes are from something they've eaten, or abruptly changing food, eating toxic food (chocolate, mustard seed, pesticides), or eating random gross thing outside (dead animals, random feces, urine in a puddle, etc).

While your dog is currently vomiting, be sure to give them access to plenty of clean water unless they're gorging. This will help make sure that they don't get dehydrated. I have also heard giving them plain boiled chicken with no skin, bones, or seasoning helps "reset" their stomach so to speak. This also helps with diarrhea!

If you're concerned, I would suggest calling your veterinarian office and asking them questions. Normally the staff are very informative and can help with at home remedies if you're in a tight spot and can't afford to bring them in. They can also help determine severity with the symptoms you've noticed. Which can determine whether or not they actually need to be brought it, or if they have a sensitive stomach.

Good Luck!