The most important thing is for us to do a meet-and-greet so you can have the opportunity to observe the house and how my dogs and I interact with your pup or pups. We'll be able to answer any questions, identify any special needs, and generally let everyone get to know each other. I will always offer this free service before you commit to a stay, walk, or drop-in with me. I don't have any breed restrictions or even preferences (all dogs are awesome), but in rare instances I may need to exercise the right to pass on a boarding - e.g. if there seems to be a risk of damaging or aggressive behavior...or even if it seems like I'm just not the "right fit" for your pup's needs.

The dogs are able to get a fair amount of exercise in the fenced back yard. For puppies and for younger/higher-energy dogs, please refer to the policy in the "About Me" section. My neighborhood is dog-friendly, and doesn't have much traffic, making it great for walks if we do feel the need to add them. My own dogs are friendly and social. A multiple-dog environment does bring its own dynamic though, so I've developed some safety procedures with help from Rover. To make sure all of our four-legged friends are comfortable together, please review the following: ESCAPE PREVENTION: 1. While on walks, I provide my own dogs with secure leads and/or harnesses, and have a fair amount of experience with leash training. I ask that you provide similar equipment, and I'll assess if your dog has any tendencies to pull the leash, make sudden movements, etc. (but it's rare that I encounter a pup I have much difficulty in handling). We can determine together at the meet and greet if group walks will work, or if solo walks only are best. 2. To prevent any possibility of bolting through doors, dogs will always enter and exit the house through the door that opens onto the fenced back yard. 3. When the dogs are out in the fenced yard, they will be supervised. I monitor for digging behaviors or other attempts to get through the fence, and will always be on the lookout for any aggressive or overly excitable behavior. I've found that a proactive, instructive approach is best, especially in group/pack settings...combined with lots of affection, of course! INTRODUCTIONS: 1. Whether your dog is meeting mine (as in a boarding or daycare), or if we're on a walk and possibly meeting a strange dog, introduction success is best achieved by keeping things relaxed and friendly. 2. Keeping their leads loose, and letting them circle around so they can sniff each other is best. If we're meeting a strange dog and the other owner isn't familiar with this or is otherwise tense, we'll just avoid them and keep moving. 3. My experience is that meet and greets are best done in the place where the dogs will be interacting. There is ample space in my fenced yard, and I have the area set up so we can do the introductions gradually. If you expect your dog(s) to need a particular arrangement, however, just let me know. We can make those decisions/arrangements when setting up the meet and greet. 4. I'll always be watching for loose, relaxed body language before proceeding, and I'll be on the lookout for warning signs like stiff bodies, raised neck hair, staring. If any of the dogs are overly excited, we'll make sure to calm them down before proceeding. 5. If they're not ready to be friends yet, there's no need to rush it. And if a tussle does break out for any reason, I'm good at staying calm and distracting/separating them so they can calm down. FEEDING: 1. Even the best behaved dogs can be food aggressive, so with that in mind, all meal times get closely monitored. I'm very used to feeding dogs safely in group settings. 2. If any signs of food aggression or hesitation with eating around other dogs develop, I'm generally able to redirect it. If it becomes necessary, then there are spare rooms and dog gates that can be employed to provide "safe areas". ANXIETY: Dogs may sometimes display some anxiety signs (accidents, destructive behavior) on a stay. 1. Usually, most separation anxiety can be avoided with exercise and engagement. As a rule, I avoid "time outs" -- isolation generally increases anxiety in dogs, and I find it's much better to provide instruction on appropriate behavior in the group. 2. If problems still arise, I'll be able to communicate information of this kind to you via the Rover app. When we meet, I'll get your preferences for level of communication as well as your availability to answer questions. 3. In the rare event that separation anxiety becomes extreme or unmanageable, I'll contact you to discuss options. These may include booking me for additional walks to provide calming exercise, or having me transport your pup to an alternate boarding arrangement, as the situation warrants.